Do it yourself pond installation

[havalotta]

Creating something you will truly enjoy from this point forth... isn't as hard as you may think it be.

#1)
BEFORE you begin!
Make a few calls to your electrical, gas, phone, sprinkler system and other companies that may service you via underground.
They will label (Free of charge) where their cables and underground lines lie! Electrical lines can and often are very DEADLY!

#2)
Decide upon which type of pond you will be putting in.
A preformed pool is most easily installed, does not rip or crease but does have its size limits.
A flexible liner (Which comes in all sorts of sizes and thicknesses) enables YOU to decide upon how large of a pond you want to create.
Bonus being.... Larger ponds are usually more ecologically stable for aquatic life and easier to manage.
A concrete pond Requires skilled labor, increases the pH of the water, but can be controlled by proper coating.

#3)
Decide upon its location.
Do you want it up close for an easy view from the house?
Out back to draw more wildlife?
Near the porch where you entertain or dine?
In an area that seems free from plant growth?
Are there electrical outlets nearby?
(Adding a ground fault interrupter (GFIC) will prevent electrical shock!)
It should be placed or created in an elevated area away from TREE debris and polluted run-off water from rains and other sources.

#4)
What type of features do you intend to include?
Waterfall?
Fountain?
Spouting objects?
Lighting-Underwater, Floating, Overhead?
Gravel?
Stones?
Bridge?

#5)
What type of edging will you be using?
A medium height wall if your'e frequented by kids?
Bricks?
Rocks?
Slabs?
Pebbles?
Plants?
Moss?
These are a few of the things and then some that you must consider before you begin...

[havalotta]

Would you now like to add....
Aquatic plants?
Native potted and underwater plants need at-least five to six hours of sunlight per day.
They provide oxygen, shade, and help keep water nutrients under control.

Turtles?
Need a slope for entering and exiting, partially submerged logs, feeder fish, plant leaves, snails and other aquatic insects for feed.
They also need a base to hibernate in or warmth to prevent them FROM hibernating.

Fish-Koi?
Require
Less sun
A 10-15% water replacement once a week or so.
Feeding-That stops once the water temperature reaches 45 Degrees otherwise an ammonia surge (due to the inactive beneficial bacteria) will eventually kill them.
A pond heater or water movement to ensure a frozen surface has an opening to let air pass through
2000 - 3000 gallons of water (four to five feet in depth)
Possibly an over head net as protection from herons
A filtering system (See next article)

[havalotta]

Your pond will require some sort of filtering system if you are intending to include aquatic plants and or animals......
Skimmer A pre-filter for catching large floating debris
Mechanical filter Removes debri
Biological filter Breaks down the ammonia and nitrate wastes and controls the algae
U.V. filter Kills bacteria.
Chemical filtration Removes chlorine, pesticides, heavy metals, ammonia and other chemical impurities from the pond water, helps improve clarity and remove pond odors through use of carbon.
Pump Runs water through whichever type of filtration-waterfall system-s you chose.
Submersible pumps are less expensive and easier to install but don't last as long as an external pump does.
External pumps are more energy efficient, longer lasting, but involve more plumbing and you need to disguise them from view.

Generally speaking...
Your pump should be able to circulate the entire pond water in a maximum of two hours.
For instance....A 1000 gallon pond would need a 500GPH (Gallon per hour) pump.

If you are adding a fountain or waterfall
You will also need to consider the 'head height' or pumping height of the pump as well.
(Some manufactures show charts that break down the power of each size pump according to the increase of height.)

Now that you are ready to begin.......

[Sage]

No wonder your neighbor got rid of it!

[BooBooBearBecky]

havalotta,
Nice job putting all the pond how-to tips together for those of us thinking about putting in water features.

[Equilibrium]

Yaa!!! This is good "stuff"!!! Bottom drain.... add a bottom drain if you can afford one!!!

[havalotta]

Good point!
To Drain or not to drain....

If you choose to add a drainage system
You need a lower area for it to drain into!
You must add a filter or catch in the basin to prevent the debris from plugging up the system.
You must add a screen to its lower end to prevent critters from plugging it.
You may need to create a drainage field if you do not have a lower area for use. drainage field - Google Search

Cons
You may crack the liner creating one.
There isn't a lower area close enough to drain into.
You intend on planting directly into your pond.
It could be very labor intensive.
Aquatic life will drain out.

[havalotta]

Start gathering your supplies....

A rigid or flexible pond liner.
can of spray paint or a garden hose - to mark your designated area out
shovel - to dig out sod and soil
small bucket - to collect worms
few buckets or a tarp - to store some of the soil in or on
wagon or wheel barrel - to transport sod, rocks and soil
4-6 posts, a hangable level and string - for leveling
chisels and hammer - to aid in shaping your edging stones
Edging stones or whatever you've chosen - to protect its edges from the sun
moss - for between rock crevasses
small spade - for leveling areas underneath the edging stones and for tucking moss in
bushes and plants - to soften the area and provide shade
Anything else?
Plenty of liquids...And last but not least... A few stretches to ease the body into its work mode.

[havalotta]

Time to install!

ALL of the underground lines MUST be marked!

PLEASE.... Feel free to ask questions, add comments, suggestions or ideas...ANYTIME during this demonstration!

A preformed pool shall be used in the following ....

[Sage]

We're with you, havalotta!