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#1 |
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Too Wild To Garden
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Idaho
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We live in a very cold zone with a growing season of about 65 to 70 days. Last year my neighbor managed to grow roma tomatoes outside from seed in beds within large old tractor tires. She said that they keep the soil warmer, which tomatos need.
Any opinions on this? Do you think the tires would put toxins into the soil? I am very apprehensive on using black plastic also for the same reason, but I am only suspicious and really have no knowledge on it. Any ideas on how to make the soil warmer would be appreciated. |
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#2 |
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WG Prize & Gift Coordinator
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan
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You can roll out a few rows of that dark weed barrier that let the moisture pass through and get a pretty good jump on the season.
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The successful woman is the woman that had the chance and took it! A walk among the elusive Whitetail Deer |
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#3 |
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WG Facilitator
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Cajun Country, Louisiana, USA
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Manure will add warmth. But you have to be careful not to put too much to "burn" the plants.
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My yarden and I lean a little to the wild side. |
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#4 |
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Grub
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Dakota
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Anything black or actively rotting will add heat to the soil. Tires don't appear to add anything - we've used them for decades & have not had any problems where subsequent plantings won't grow.. If you try the 'actively rotting material' method, try making heaps & planting in dirt on the tops of them. The mass of material holds any heat better than flat ground so should give better results.
One year, just for the 'hay' of it, we wrapped bales in black plastic after piling dirt & set the bales tight around the dirt, in rectangles, then planted in the dirt to see if we could get a jump on summer. It worked, but we had to be careful to cover every such 'hill' every night to protect against frost until we were into the so-called 'frost-free' season. of course in the northern tier of states, there ain't no such thing.. we had over 2" of snow June 8, 2009.. but most years we are frost-free from sometime in May until sometime in early September. Try it & find out - you aren't likely to make any terminal, unrepairable impact.. You're planting a garden, after all, not thousand(s) of acres. |
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#5 |
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Too Wild To Garden
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Idaho
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P.H.,
Hummm, after we dig out our camper that is currently packed in bales of hay I will have some to work with. Maybe I'll try to pick up a tire and then make a pile like you described and compare, starting tomato seedlings as my neighbor suggested. What is the "actively strong rotting material method"? Do you have a link for it? |
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#6 |
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WG Operations, Facilitator
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northern Wisconsin
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Arrow,
I live in a similar cool zone (4), and short growing season (60-80 days depending on spring and fall frost times). Some methods I have used to warm the soil are:
Here some photos of my garden to give you some ideas. I raked the soil into mounds throughout the entire garden rows. Lay cardboard down between the raised rows. Cover the cardboard with leaves & compost. This worked well for beans and tomatoes. ![]() I used modified raised beds for corn and squash. ![]() Another modified raised bed for grapes ![]() Tiered raised beds for strawberries ![]() BooBooBearBecky |
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#7 |
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WG Operations, Facilitator
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northern Wisconsin
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More soil warming methods used in cooler growing zones.
Floating Row Covers These allow rain and sun to enter through them. They are available in various weights. I use floating row covers with PVC supports in the spring and fall to protect my pepper plants. ![]() Raised bed using logs for baby apple trees. ![]() Raised bed using rocks for sorghum and pumpkins. The rocks get warm from the sun and in turn warm the soil. ![]() Raised bed with garden fencing and posts. Grow stuff in these during the summer months. Fill these to the top with compost items in the fall. (my wire is all bent up because a bear sat on it) ![]() ![]() BooBooBearBecky |
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#8 |
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WG Operations, Facilitator
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northern Wisconsin
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Still more ideas for growing in cool climate zones.
More raised beds with logs with grapes & flowers. ![]() Amaranth growing in large pots. ![]() Old plastic swimming pool with the bottom cut out and small branches cut to surround the pool edging. Alpine strawberries growing in the bed. ![]() Garden fencing and post used to create a raised bed for tomatillos. ![]() Peppers growing in unheated greenhouse structure. ![]() I hope all the pictures I have posted give others ideas for gardening in cool climates and short growing seasons. The best tip in general is too find creative ways to keep the soil warm. BooBooBearBecky |
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#9 |
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WG Facilitator
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Cajun Country, Louisiana, USA
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![]() My wire is all bent up because. . . um, just because it is. Leave it to you to come up with creative excuses.
__________________
My yarden and I lean a little to the wild side. |
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#10 |
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Salamander
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Racine, Ohio along the Ohio River
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Before the advent of the modern greenhouse designs, farmers would dig out beds anywhere from one to two feet deep and fill the cavity with fresh manure, which was then covered with approximately six to eight inches of good soil. A wooden frame with a ridge pole surrounded the bed and rafters were attached to the ridge pole. Panes of glass were then laid on the slanting roof and attached with firring strips. Today, you can use clear plastic in lieu of the glass. The heat from the manure warmed the soil and the air space beneath the glass. I have found remnants of these structures in southern Ohio in areas where truck farming was prevalent. The farmers started tobacco, tomatoes, peppers, and many other vegetables with this method. You might want to construct a smaller version (4' x 8') and see how it works for you.
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Porterbrook Native Plants |
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